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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Hi
Everyone,
I
wanted to answer some of the most popular questions I get asked by my
students, fellow trainers, competitors and any one interested in dogs. Also
included in the FAQ's page are my opinions on the sport, living with and
training dogs and how they have made my life what it is today.
Please keep sending your questions and as I get them, I will update this
page with my answers.

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HOW
MANY DOGS DO YOU HAVE AND WHY DO YOU HAVE SO MANY?
I think this
is one of the most popular questions I get asked. Currently, I have 10
dogs. Their ages range from 15.5 years down to 12 months. As to
the latter part of the question, the answer simply is: Because I love
them. Dogs are my passion. They have been my passion since I
was a little girl. My parents are avid animal lovers and instilled
in me the love I have for them today. I have never lived my life
without lots of animals. Updated: October 2009
Having lost 2 dogs this year, I currently have 9 dogs. I do
however often have my parents Border Collie Flame and their Pomeranian
Melba which would make 11. Plus I currently work with American
Eskimo Rescue and I have one foster dog with me.
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Growing up, my parents had an average of 20
dogs of all different kinds of breeds and rescues. They also were
German Shepherd Breeders. In addition to dogs, we had cats, rabbits,
birds and even a monkey. So, I guess I would say, living my life
without dogs would be impossible for me. While attending the
University of Delaware, I lived off campus and worked full time just so I
wouldn't be without my dogs. I still have one of those dogs today.
I purchased him while in college at a mall pet store for $100 dollars.
He has been a faithful friend and companion for the last 15 years and with me every step
of the way. His name is Randall and he was my very first Keeshond.
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As to the amount of
them, I love a big pack, although 10 dogs isn't that big compared to what
I grew up with, it's big by most people's standards. However,
nothing fascinates me more than pack behavior and watching my dogs
interact with each other and learning the social order they establish is
always interesting even when their is unrest in the pack. My dogs
have been my greatest teachers and I think you can become a great trainer
if you experience living in a multi-dog household. I have arranged
my life in order to take the very best care of them and I try to give them
everything possible within my means.
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WHY
DO YOU HAVE SO MANY NORTHERN BREEDS ESPECIALLY BEING AN AGILITY TRAINER?
Why not? Northern breeds are my favorite type of dogs.
I know Northern Breeds are not the first choice of most agility trainers
like Border Collies, however, it's something about that wolf look I just
love. I guess I would train Wolves if I could, but Northern breeds
are easier to live with :)
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Keeshonden are my favorite of the Northern Breeds. From the first
time I saw one in a pet store when I was in college, I fell in love.
That's obviously why I have 4 of them. I also have American Eskimos,
Pomeranians and my Alaskan Malamute who looks enough like a wolf that I
sometimes wonder how much Malamute, Draco, really is. Draco is my
first Malamute and boy is he a challenge. He's extremely smart, to much so
for his own good. He's so protective of me and is the most
perceptive dog I have. He can read dogs like an open book and sends
me signals to be aware of my surroundings of both dogs and people.
Northern breeds also have been my best teachers in my training. They
are not the type of dog that needs to please you every step of the way and
therefore training them is very interesting to me. I love training
challenges and figuring out how they think and why they do certain things.
They do not allow you a learning curve. Either figure out how to
communicate with them quickly or stop trying. They can't be bothered
with you if you take to long. They have made me the trainer I am today and
I can't thank them enough for that.
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BORDER COLLIES ARE NOT NORTHERN BREEDS, WHY DID YOU GET THEM?
The
honest answer is that somebody told me that I couldn't train one because
I only ran a small, scared Pomeranian in agility, named Rushka. I know, not really a great
reason to get a dog, but this was how I got started with them.
Something to prove, I guess. Not knowing I had trained big dogs all
my life and had loads of experience with dogs in general, this person just
assumed I didn't know much beyond the one little scared dog I had in
agility.
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So, I
got my first Border Collie, Lochlan, 9 years ago. Wow, what a breeze
he was. So willing to learn, so full of energy, so willing to do
whatever I wanted. I couldn't believe how quickly he picked up
everything I taught him. Now he isn't the type of Border Collie that
could take endless repetition, he is the soft kind, but having so much
experience with dogs that gave you 3 chances to teach them something,
Lochlan was like a dream to me. That's why so many people have them
in agility because they are easy to train, they can handle
repetition, therefore, allowing you a very large learning curve and they
are very well suited for the sport, physically.
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I now
have 2 Border Collies. Lochlan is 9 and War, his half brother , is
5. Both my boys are soft and sweet even though their personalities
are very different. They are so totally devoted to me and want to
constantly please me. I also train one of my parents Border Collies
named Flame. I am doing her service dog training as well as training
her in agility. My parents work her on stock.
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HOW
DO YOU MANAGE 10 DOGS AND DO THEY GET ENOUGH PERSONAL ATTENTION?
I have absolutely great help :) I am also lucky to be able to have
so many of them with me when I train my students and travel to different
locations. As for personal attention, they may not get one on one
attention for hours a day like a single dog household, but they don't lack
for exercise and attention from me.
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Anyone
that knows my dogs knows what great physical condition they are in and how
attentive they are to me. They are used to working in a group and
will do anything to get my attention. The one thing they don't get
is a lot of agility training, but that's ok, I work very quickly when I
train and teach concepts to my dogs in very short repetitions. I
seem to manage a lot of quality training in a very small amount of time.
Besides, I can't do tons of repetition training. To me, if I can't
train the behavior quickly, I then need to rethink how I am training it.
Besides, repetition is very boring to me so it seems to work well for all
of us.
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And
no, we are not the same person. Seems like a strange thing to say,
but so many people think we are one person that runs 1000 dogs in agility.
I often get complimented for Kim's run and she gets complimented for mine.
That's fine by me, we both strive to be the best trainers we can. We
are, however, extremely close and the very best of friends and we are
lucky to enjoy our dogs and this wonderful dog sport together. I
just wish we lived closer.
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HOW
OFTEN DO YOU COMPETE? I have to say, I don't compete a lot
compared to many agility enthusiasts. I compete about 6 months out
of the year and in that 6 months about 2- 3 shows a month. It might
be more if there happens to be a lot going on in a particular month. I take
5 months off in the winter and 2 months off in the summer. I like to
give my dogs and myself a break and let them just be dogs. They are so
much more to me than agility dogs.
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I have
5 competitive dogs, but I also have 5 dogs that are not competing either
because they are retired or not ready so I can't justify being away every
weekend. However, I try to pick the shows that are most beneficial
to my goals and accomplish as much as I can within that time frame.
I will try to do the big events and often they require additional time and
travel away from home so I will forgo more local shows.
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HOW
MANY OF YOUR DOGS ARE RESCUE'S?
Of my current dog's 3
Keeshonden, one Pomeranian and one American Eskimo are rescues. One
of my keeshonds is from a pet store. My latest rescue is a 3 legged
American Eskimo I call Tatiana. I rescued her last year at 9 years
old. She is an awesome dog and is completely agility trained.
She just loves agility and love to train. When I got her, she had a
different name and did not know any commands. She will never
be able to compete in agility, but that doesn't matter to me. I
wanted to rescue her after losing my 16 year old rescue American Eskimo,
Tia, that passed away in 2005. Tatiana is very inspirational
to my student's dog. They see what she can do with only 3 legs and
now being around 10 years old and see the possibilities for their dogs.
Giving dog's a good life that probably wouldn't be given a chance is very
important to me and I will always have rescue dogs in my life.
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DO
MALE OR FEMALE DOGS MAKE BETTER AGILITY DOGS AND WHICH DO YOU PREFER?
I know many people prefer one sex over another, but I love them both.
I alternate between the sexes so I keep the numbers even. My next
dog will be a girl. There are qualities I love in the boys and
qualities I love in the girls. I don't think it matters one way or
the other and it really boils down to personal preference. My
girls happen to be very sassy and full of themselves and my boys just love
their Mom.
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WHAT IS THE FIRST THING YOU DO WHEN YOU GET A NEW DOG?
One of
the very first things I do with my dogs is to teach them how to run.
It seems simple enough, but whatever age I get a particular dog whether it
be 7 weeks or 9 years, I teach them how to run with me. Then I teach
them how to run with the other dogs. Melba and Lochlan were puppies
together and I spent a lot of time at the park having them run after the
other dogs. Lochlan was all legs and Melba was only about a pound,
but she learned to run from early on and Lochlan learned how to be
coordinated. I definitely think this has helped in Melba's agility
career since she always runs in full stride. This allows her to
cover the maximum amount of ground for her size. Then I incorporate
running and playing games. I love to chase my dogs and grab their
tails. They love it and it makes them crazy. They must think
I'm nuts most of the time, but we have a lot of fun together. By
then I have usually come up with a name for them so I start teaching them
their name recognition. The next thing I work on is body awareness
and flexibility. To me, this is one of the most important aspects of
my training. This not only benefits them in agility, but in every
other aspect of their life. To date, I have never had an agility
related injury or any other injury for that matter. My dogs
are kept on a very regular fitness program and I think this is the key to
their overall health. The downside is, they are always hungry and
they don't have an ounce of fat on them.
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WHY
IS FREE SHAPING SO IMPORTANT TO YOU AND WHY DO YOU TEACH IT IN YOUR
FOUNDATION PROGRAM? Firstly, I free shape everything. I
never get tired of finding things to free shape with my dogs and I train
this more than any agility behavior. All I have to do is show any
one of my dogs the clicker and they know exactly what game we are going to
play and they can't wait. They love to free shape and they love
trying to figure out what I want. I'm fascinated by watching dogs
think and problem solve and free shaping is the best way that I have found
that maximizes this. The more I free shape, the better they get and
the more complex behaviors I can train. Since I have a lot of
fearful dogs, I truly believe this builds their confidence. I see
their personalities change, they become bolder in situations that before
used to make them apprehensive. As for my students, it's sometimes
hard to get them to be patient enough to free shape. They want fast
results and they often fall into the luring trap and then their dog
doesn't really ever begin to think on their own or develop problem solving
skills. You must be patient when you first begin and reward the
tiniest behaviors. I can't stress enough to my students that free
shaping is an amazing training tool and it strengthens the bond with you
and your dog.
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HOW
OFTEN SHOULD I REWARD MY DOG DURING A TRAINING SESSION?
Every
trainer is different, but for myself, I am extremely generous with my
rewards, whether they be verbal, physical, food or toys. I never
stop rewarding even my most experienced dogs even though I know that for
them the reward is working with me. When I train, I have clickers
and toys attached to my body and I have fistful of food in my hands.
I work extremely quickly so I can get right back into the training after I
give the reward. I never want my dogs to think that their efforts
are not appreciated by me. Often people with high drive dogs don't
reward enough in my opinion because the dog will keep working for them,
however, I think this is counter productive because I believe the dog will
then start to learn that rewards come from agility and not from you.
I never want my dogs to think agility is more important than me and if
they never did it again, they wouldn't care either way.
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WHEN SHOULD I START TRAINING MY NEW DOG OR PUPPY IN AGILITY?
I
start my dogs right away. If I get a puppy at 7 weeks, I start
introducing very basic agility behaviors. I remember introducing
weave poles to War at 8 weeks. There is so much that can be done
with puppies that I would never miss the opportunity to use this time
wisely. This does not mean I am drilling puppies over full sized
equipment at 8 weeks, unfortunately, sometimes this is the assumption
people make. I don't even drill my adult dogs and I sure wouldn't do
it with a puppy. However, the more foundation work you can do, the better.
As for older dogs, the same is true. All my rescue dogs were started
the day I got them. I wanted to establish a relationship with them
that working with me is fun and that it's going to be our new bond
together. Each dog is an individual and I treat them as such so I
tailor my training specifically to each dog.
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WHAT ARE THE BEST KIND OF TREATS TO USE?
It really depends on
your dog and what they like. The key is they should be crazy about
what you are offering. My dogs will work for absolutely
anything, but then again, they will eat just about anything. What I
like to stress is variety. Don't use the same old treat all the
time. That's about as boring as working the same exercise all the
time or becoming predictable in your training where your dog knows
precisely what they are going to work on because you always start your
training sessions the same way. That goes for toys too. Use
your dogs favorite toy, but then introduce new toys and make those toys
just as rewarding. Remember, the reward really isn't about the food
or the toy, it's about you and your dog.
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WHAT VENUE SHOULD I START COMPETING IN?
I really think it
depends on the student and their individual personality, confidence and
skill level. I usually recommend to a first time competitor venues
that allow them to train in the ring. This way if they need to fix a
particular sequence or obstacle performance they are still allowed to
complete their run. So my first choice for students ready to compete
for the first time is Nadac,
CPE or
DOCNA. Although I never have personally competed in CPE or DOCNA,
I hear that these are very friendly venues for the new competitor and they
allow some training in the ring. I have competed a lot in NADAC and
really like the venue for novice competitors and novice dogs. My
venues of choice are AKC and
USDAA. Neither venue allows
training in the ring and the courses tend to be more challenging and
competitive. There is no reason you can't start with one of these
venues as your first trial experience, just know that training is not
allowed and if you attempt to redo part of the course you will be asked to
leave. Eventually you will find the venue that suits you and your
dog.
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WHAT TYPE OF CONTACT POSITIONS DO YOU TRAIN AND HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHAT'S
BEST FOR YOUR STUDENTS? Firstly, I let the dog determine what contact
position to assume in which they are most comfortable. I would never
make a dog do something that was physically difficult for them. So
much of contact training is based on the dog's structure and natural
physical abilities. Some dog's naturally stride into the contacts
and very little training is required when you have this type of dog,
however, most of us don't have these kinds of dogs and therefore a lot of
training is put into the contacts. Routinely, I like to see the
dog's develop physically before the decision is made on the most
appropriate contact performance. The next part of the equation is
the handler's physical abilities and goals for the sport and their ability
to practice. For 2 on 2 off, a set of stairs will be enough,
however, for running contacts you need to have enough space to work
stride. I generally recommend a stopping contact for students just
starting out whether it be a 2 on 2 off contact position, 4 on the floor
or lie down position or a 1 rear toe on. I do not like the dogs
targeting to a particular slat on the equipment because I believe this
position is too general for the dogs to maintain and it's a hard position
for the dogs to get into at speed. For head heavy breeds they are
definitely trained on a running contact since their ability to stop is
more difficult than other dogs. Most of my student's with small dogs
are trained with a running contact unless they are strongly opposed to it.
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As for
my dogs, Melba has running contacts on the dog walk and A-frame, however,
due to her square structure and size, she often leaps them. Yes, a 3
pound dog can miss contacts just like a border collie and she's a bit on
the crazy side so leaping seems fun for her. As for the seesaw, she
needs to run all the way to the very end of the board and lie down just to
get enough momentum for the board to move. If she doesn't, it's a
slow ride down. As for my keeshonds, 2 of my girls do 2 on 2 off
positions, however, one of them, Hermione, maintains the position in a
stand and Nadja does hers in a sit. They chose the positions so
that's what I trained. This is for all contact equipment. My
other keeshond who is trained by my apprentice, Dr. Nancy Lubell, is doing
4 on the floor due to a weak shoulder. I don't want to put any extra
pressure on this shoulder since he has rehabbed very nicely from this
injury. My Alaskan Malamute does a lie down on the A - frame and a 2
on 2 off on the seesaw and dog walk and they are in the stand position.
Again, Draco decided what he was most comfortable doing and since he is a
very large dog, his stride is tremendous and running contacts would be
constant maintenance for him. As for my Border Collies, Lochlan
started his career doing running contacts, but as he got faster on course,
his huge stride started to carry him right over the yellow zones.
Then I went to stopping him with a 2 on 2 off in a lie down position.
This worked for awhile until I decided that I didn't like the force he was
putting on his body. Lochlan has a tremendously powerful rear, but a
very angled front and a very long back and I was afraid he was being to
hard on his body so currently, Lochlan is doing a running on the A-frame
and striding contacts on both the dog walk and seesaw. Although the
up dog walk contact continues to be the one that requires the most
maintenance. As for his brother, War, does running on the A-frame
and dog walk and a stopping 2 on 2 off lie down on the seesaw. He's
dead on in practice, but when he's high as a kite at a show, his
percentage of accuracy is only 80% at this point, but that's ok, I am in
absolutely no rush with him.
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WHY
DO YOU DO SO MUCH FLAT WORK AND WHY DO YOU CONSIDER THIS SO IMPORTANT?
I guess one of the reasons is that I love flat work. To me, all
agility boils down to flat work. If your dog doesn't understand your
body movements, then you really have no partnership with them. I
can't stress enough how important flat work is, but then again, I love the
art of movement and I want my dogs to know exactly what my movements mean.
Another reason I love flat work is because I don't like talking on course.
I really like to be as quiet as I can and let my body do the talking.
I will use a few key cues, but I really like to let my dogs figure out
their job without me constantly yelling in there ears, besides, it's not
my personality any way. I train all my flat work with a clicker and
it's how I communicate with my dogs besides giving them verbal markers
that they've done a good job. So, yes, I teach a lot of flat work, I
do a lot of flat work and I think it's one of the most important agility
skills to be taught. Once your flatwork is done, you don't
have to teach any handling because your dog already knows it.
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